I haven't painted a Space Marine for a wee while now and I haven't painted a Dark Angel for about ten years, so with this month's Miniature of the Month being an Assault Intercessor to herald the return of the Primarch Lion El'Johnson to the grim darkness of the far future, now seemed like the perfect time to kill two birds with one stone!
Before don our power armour and grab our heavy bolt pistols and chainswords, I'll just mention that as with my other Miniature of the Month Masterclasses, this isn't a step by step tutorial. Rather than having photos of each and every stage of the process, there are only pictures of the finished miniature; although I try and plan out painting projects in advance of picking up brushes, there can be quite a lot of jumping between the various elements of the miniature to build things up so it's a bit tricky doing a full step by step guide. However, I will go through how everything on the miniature was painted in detail and all of the colours used are highlighted in bold.
To get best use out of this guide, you'll need to have a little bit of painting knowledge already as it makes use of a couple of more advanced techniques, but as a quick note; glazing is using a diluted paint to apply a tint to an existing colour. Stippling is using the brush to apply paint in a 'stabbing' motion so as to create or accentuate texture and feathering is using the same brush as you've just applied paint to the miniature with—without reloading paint—to drag the paint out and over the existing colour. This spreads the new paint, thinning it and blending it in with the rest of the area.
attrib. The Primarch Rogal Dorn
The fruits of ten thousand years of labours by the Archmagos Dominus Belasarius Cawl, Primaris Space Marines are the next step in the evolution of the Emperor of Mankind's Adeptus Astartes. Larger and more physically powerful than their Firstborn cousins, Primaris Marines have began to reinforce the beleaguered fighting forces of the Imperium in the closing days of the 41st millennium following Abaddon the Despoiler's Thirteenth Black Crusade and the resurrection of the Primarch Roboute Guilliman.
The Adeptus Astartes are organised into chapters, each of which is an autonomous and self-sufficient fighting force. Some have glorious histories that stretch back to the dawn of the Imperium and the dark aftermath of the Horus Heresy while others are much more recently founded. The Dark Angels are but one of the thousands of chapters in the galaxy, but they have the singular honour of being descended from the very first Space Marine Legion created by the Emperor. Remaining loyal to the Imperium as the Warmaster Horus tore the galaxy apart in civil war, the Legion was reorganised into several chapters during what became known as the Second Founding.
Despite many centuries of loyal service though, the Dark Angels harbour a terrible secret, for in the last days of the Horus Heresy, almost half of the Legion rebelled against their Primarch and the Imperium. The resultant internecine war would see their homeworld Caliban destroyed and the rebels, known to the Dark Angels as 'the Fallen' scattered throughout space and time. While even a single one of the Fallen still draws breath, the Dark Angels regard themselves and their successor chapters as 'Unforgiven' and they will commit almost any act, no matter how terrible, to capture and draw repentance from every one of their former brothers.
Though the Dark Angels were initially reluctant to embrace the adoption of Primaris Space Marines, they have rapidly adapted to the new weapons, wargear and tactics that they bring to the chapter and now Assault Intercessors are amongst the most widespread close-support units in their arsenal. Wielding heavy bolt pistols, hand flamers and plasma pistols as they close upon the foe, they charge into the fray, making short work of their enemies with brutal swings of thunder hammers, power fists and Astartes chainswords.
Assembly
Like the Skink Warrior and Lumineth Auralan Warden, Assault Intercessors are taken from existing kits in the Citadel Miniatures range. I was lucky enough to be able to choose the parts I wanted for mine, so I elected for the Sergeant, giving him a hand flamer and power fist. I also added a small tilting shield from the Legion Cataphractii Terminators kit that I had in my bits box as I wanted to add some personal heraldry to the miniature at the painting stage.
As usual, once I'd got the miniature assembled and glued to the base, I added a little extra detail using a skull from the Citadel Skulls kit before adding texture paint to the base.
The final stage of preparation was to prime the miniature was undercoated with a grey spray primer.
Painting
Although the miniature isn't all that complicated, I've divided the rest of this guide into four sections to so that it's a bit easier to follow along: Armour, Heraldry, Other Details and finally, the Base.
I've also included a short Battle Ready Painting Guide at the end, so if you're looking to get your warriors of the Unforgiven painted up and on the table as quickly as possible, then feel free to skip to the bottom of the page to check it out.
Armour
Armour
For the deep green of the power armour plate, I began with a basecoat of Caliban Green. Although the coverage of this paint is fairly good, I used three thinned layers to get a nice smooth coverage for the following stages. With the basecoat in place, I shaded all of the green areas with Nuln Oil. Once this initial shade had completely dried, I went back and applied a second shade to the lower areas of the models greaves, pauldrons and backpack to darken them down further.
From here I highlighted all of the green areas with Caliban Green, before feathering a little of it into the areas I'd previously darkened down with the second shade. To help smooth the transition between the colours further, I glazed them with some Caliban Green thinned with some water.
All of the edges of the green areas were then highlighted with Warpstone Glow, before a more refined highlight of Moot Green focused on the areas that would would catch the most light was used to finish the armour off.
Soft Armour And Power Cabling
I've always envisaged the flexible 'soft armour' of suits of power armour as being akin to vulcanised rubber, so I usually paint them to look like a slightly glossy black or dark grey. To achieve this look, I started with a basecoat of Corax Black, before picking out the ridges of the soft armour with Dark Reaper. The ridges are then highlighted with Thunderhawk Blue and then to help tie everything together, a controlled shade of Nuln Oil is applied over the whole area.
Eye Lenses and Wrist Buttons
While you could paint the eye lenses and wrist sensor pads in any colour that contrasts the armour, because I was planning to incorporate a bone faceplate and red stripe into the model's heraldry (see below) I decided to go for a soft blue grey colour for the lenses. This was started with a basecoat of Russ Grey which was shaded with Coelia Greenshade. Once the shade had dried, the lower portions of the lenses and buttons were layered with Russ Grey before being highlighted with Fenrisian Grey and then Pallid Wych Flesh.
To create the impression that light was being reflected from a shiny surface, I then added a wee dot of Pallid Wych Flesh to the top corner of each of the lenses and buttons.
Silver Metal
There are quite a few metallic areas of the miniature which I wanted to be a nice rich gunmetal, including the vents, inner mechanisms and reactor casing of the backpack, the working parts and pistol grip of the hand flamer, the earpieces and cable mounts of the helmet and the small cable port on the right thigh. For these, I began with a basecoat of Iron Warriors which was shaded with Nuln Oil. Once this was dry, I picked out all of the edges of these areas with Ironbreaker.
Heraldry
Company Markings
The Dark Angels eschew the demarcation of their companies using bands of colour on the rims of the shoulder pads as prescribed by the Codex Astartes, preferring instead to use the left poleyn of their armour instead. As a wee challenge, I thought I'd try and replicate the markings for the 5th Company which are comprised of black and green quarters upon a field of bone white.
To begin with, I used Morghast Bone to establish a basecoat for the bone white, this was applied using several thinned layers to get as smooth a finish as possible. Once I was happy with the bone colour, I carefully blocked in the black and green quarters using Abaddon Black and Caliban Green respectively. Once I was happy with the basic layout of the poleyn, I shaded the bone areas with Seraphim Sepia. Once this had dried, I layered them with some thinned Morghast Bone before highlighting the edges with Ushabti Bone and then a finer highlight of Screaming Skull.
To finish the black quarter, I shaded the recess between the poleyn and greave with some thinned Doombull Brown to create a little contrast between the black and green before highlighting the edges of the black area with first with Dark Reaper and then with Thunderhawk Blue.
With these done, the green quarter was finished up in exactly the same fashion as the rest of the green armour as described above.
Tilting Shield
As the company markings are quartered, I decided that the miniature's personal heraldry on his tilting shield would be displayed on a field of white and red per pale as this would fit well with the squad and chapter markings shown on his pauldrons. For the white area, I began with a basecoat of Celestra Grey while for the red I used Khorne Red. These were then both shaded with Agrax Earthshade before being finished up as follows:
The edges of the white area were picked out with Celestra Grey. Once this was done, I thinned some Celestra Grey with water and applied a couple of layers over the top half of the area, so that it would be slightly lighter in tone than the bottom half. I then highlighted the edges with Ulthuan Grey and picked out the corners of the edges with White Scar.
For the red half of the shield, I did the same thing but used Khorne Red for the first highlight and the layers on the top half, then highlighted the edges with Wazdakka Red and picked out the corners with Squiq Orange.
The markings on the tilting shield offer the opportunity to hint at a little bit of the Space Marine's story, so I combined some decals to make something that helps to weave a narrative. Emblazoned upon the crimson half of the shield the Sergeant bears the sigil of the Indomitus Crusade, augmented with lightning flashes, indicating that he has fought in drop assaults as part of the campaign to recover the lost swathes of the Imperium. Upon the white half he bears crossed keys, perhaps indicating he is party to some of the secrets that the Dark Angels possess. Finally above both of these devices, is emblazoned an aquila, perhaps as a proclamation of his loyalty to Terra or in recognition of some great feat of arms.
Helmet Markings
Just as there are markings to indicate the chapter and company that a Space Marine belongs to, so too are there symbols to indicate rank and speciality as well.
The skull crest on the brow of this Space Marine's helmet signifies that he is a sergeant, entrusted to lead squads of his brothers into battle.
To get a nice burnished, cold gold that would contrast with the other colours on the helmet, I started with a basecoat of Retributor Armour. This was shaded with Reikland Fleshshade, before I applied a highlight of Liberator Gold and then a finer highlight of Stormhost Silver.
I took a little bit of artistic license with the rest of the helmet markings, as I don't think that the Dark Angels chapter marks veteran sergeants out with red stripes and bone faceplates, but the Legion that they once were did. With the return of Lieutenants to Space Marine forces, perhaps other relics markings of the distant past may also have been ressurrected as well?
In any case - the crimson stripe began with a basecoat of Khorne Red which was shaded with Nuln Oil. I then feathered some Khorne Red onto the uppermost area of the stripe before repeating the process with some Wazdakka Red on the very highest part of the stripe. To finish it off, I added a very sparing highlight of Squig Orange to the edges of the stripe.
The bone white of the helmet faceplate was painted in an identical fashion to the left poleyn, beginning with a basecoat of Morghast Bone which was carefully shaded with Seraphim Sepia. Once the shade was dry, I feathered Morghast Bone back onto the flat areas around the eye lenses before highlighting all of the hard edges of the plate and the vents with Ushabti Bone and then applying an extreme highlight of Screaming Skull to the edges that would catch the most light.
Shoulder Pad Markings
The chapter symbol on the left shoulder and the squad markings on the right are decals from the Space Marine transfer sheet.
After applying gloss varnish to the shoulder pads, I carefully cut the decals from the sheet and applied them using tweezers and a small paintbrush to slide them into place before dabbing them dry with a clean cotton bud.
The squad marking requires the number to be applied over the red 'assault' symbol, so take care not to disturb the red symbol as you add the number.
I applied some Microsol to the decals to soften them and help them sit more naturally and left everything to settle and cure overnight. The following day, I applied a layer of gloss varnish over the decals to seal them and help hide the gloss of the backing paper before using matt varnish to dull them down again.
Other Details
Leather Belt and Pouches
The dark tan leather of Space Marine's ammunition pouches and belt began with a basecoat of Thondia Brown which I shaded with Nuln Oil. I then used Doombull Brown to pick out all of the edges of the leather, as wellas too add a few scuffs and scratches. Once I was happy with how this was looking, I used Skrag Brown as an extreme highlight, focusing on the corners of the pouches the very edge of the belt as well as refining the scuffs on them both.
Pectoral Imperialis
A badge of honour and loyalty that has existed for as long as the Imperium itself, the winged skull of the Imperialis decorates the plastron of many Space Marines - a fitting marking for those known to many as the Angels of Death.
Like the bone white of the helmet and poleyn, I started with basecoat of Morghast Bone which I shaded with Seraphim Sepia, taking care not to allow the shade to overflow onto the green armour. Once the shade had dried, I highlighted the skull and the edges of each of the feathers with Ushabti Bone before using Screaming Skull to add an extreme highlight to the edges that would catch the most light.
Skin
As the Marine's head is bare, his face is one of the focal points of the miniature, so it's worth taking the time to ensure that you pay attention to the details so that they all come together as a whole.
I wanted a fairly light flesh tone for this Space Marine, so I began by basecoating the whole head with Cadian Fleshtone. As this paint isn't the most opaque on first application, it's worth using several layers thinned with a little water to build up to a smooth, even finish that doesn't obscure any details.
Once I was happy with the basecoat, I thinned some Guilliman Flesh Contrast with Contrast Medium at about a 30/70 ratio and applied it over the whole head. After ensuring that this had completely dried, I took some Cadian Fleshtone thinned with water and slowly built up some initial highlights on the prominent areas like the forehead, brow, nose, cheeks, mouth, jaw and ears. I also feathered Cadian Fleshtone onto the top of the head either side of his hair.
Once I was happy with how this looked, I repeated the process with thinned Kislev Flesh, focusing on refining the highlights that I'd established on the all of the prominent facial features.
To finish the face up, I picked out the eyes and teeth with Ulthuan Grey before glazing the lower lip with a 50:50 mix of Beserker Bloodshade and Kislev Flesh and under the eyes with a 50:50 mix of Drakenhof Nightshade and Kislev Flesh. Once the blue glaze was completely dried, I went back and glazed the whites of the eyes with Nuln Oil thinned with water to add a little more definition to them before glazing some Beserker Bloodshade into the the scar on the forehead.
Finally, the Space Marine's tongue was picked out with Word Bearers Red before being shaded with Berserker Bloodshade and then receiving a highlight of Bugman's Glow.
Hair
I basecoated the Space Marine's hair with Rhinox Hide which was shaded with Agrax Earthshade. Once the shade was thoroughly dry, I stippled on some Rhinox Hide to establish some texture to the hair which I refined with subsequent stippled layers of Doombull Brown and Tuskgor Fur.
I then used Tuskgor Fur to highlight the individual strands of hair at the edges of the mohican before using a glaze of thinned Agrax Earthshade to tie everything together. To finish the hair up, I used some thinned Nuln Oil to glaze the the edges and back of the hair to create a bit more depth to it.
Hand Flamer
The bright red of the hand flamer's casing started with a basecoat of Mephiston Red, over which I applied a controlled shade of Beserker Bloodshade. Once the shade was dry, I feathered a little Mephiston Red back onto the higher portions of the casing to help establish a little more contrast. From here, I highlighted all of the edges of the casing with Evil Sunz Scarlet before picking out the uppermost edges with Wild Rider Red. I also used a little Cadian Fleshtone as an extreme highlight for the rivets and the corners of the casing.
Finally, to help tie things together a bit better, I thinned some Carroberg Crimson to make a glaze and applied it to the lower third of each of the panels of the casing.
The create the impression that the hand flamer has been well used, I painted the heat shield to look scorched and sooty. I started off by basecoating the whole heat shield with a couple of thin layers of Balthasar Gold before shading it with Agrax Earthshade. Once the shade had dried, I feathered a little Hashut Copper onto the area of the heat shield closest to the casing before stippling Abbadon Black over the portion closest to the flame projector. This was built up over a few layers with each one being more heavily applied nearer the flame projector.
It's very easy to accidentally lift the paint back up if you don't wait long enough for it to dry while doing this, so take your time and remember that 'less is more' when applying weathering effects like this.
To finish the heat shield off, I roughly picked out the edges using Ironbreaker which helps create a striking highlight but also helps create the impression that the carbon build up has been scuffed and scratched away in some places.
The base
Earth
To contrast the green armour, I chose to paint the Assault Intercessor's base in a muddy brown, so started out with a basecoat of Dryad Bark to get a nice flat earthen colour. I applied this using a couple of layers both of which were thinned with a little water so they would flow in around the texture on the base more easily.
Once the basecoat was completely dry, I then lightly drybrushed the earth first with Gorthor Brown, then did a slightly lighter drybrush of Baneblade Brown and then added a final, light drybrush of Rakarth Flesh.
Skull
After applying a basecoat of Morghast Bone to the skull, the eye sockets and nasal cavity of the skull were shaded with Agrax Earthshade. Once this was dry, everywhere but the previously mentioned areas was shaded with Seraphim Sepia. Thinned Morghast Bone was then layered onto the skull leaving the shading showing in the recesses. The brow, eyesockets, cheekbones and nose were then highlighted with Ushabti Bone and finished off with a finer highlight of Screaming Skull on the most prominent parts.Stone
I began with a basecoat of Dawnstone which was shaded with Agrax Earthshade. I then highlighted all of the edges with some Dawnstone thinned to about the consistency of milk, before thinning it further until it was almost a glaze and painting it onto the upper surfaces of the stone.Once this was completely dry, I applied some edge highlights of Administratum Grey and then used Grey Seer to pick out areas like the corners and add some light scratches and scuffs in a few places as well. Finally, I thinned some Athonian Camoshade and Biel-Tan Green into glazes with a little water and applied it to some random areas of the stone to help break up the uniformity a bit and make it look like it's been at the mercy of the elements for some time.
Battle Ready Guide
If you're looking to get your sons of Caliban battle ready and on the table as quickly as possible, then you can follow these quick steps:
- Paint the armour Caliban Green
- Paint the soft armour Corax Black
- Paint the belt and any pouches Thondia Brown
- Paint the vents on the back pack and working parts of the weapons Leadbelcher
- Paint the weapon casings and helmet eye lenses Mephiston Red
- Paint any bare heads either Rakarth Flesh, Bloodreaver Flesh or Cadian Fleshtone
- Apply a texture paint like Stirland Mud, Astrogranite Debris or Agrellan Badlands to the base
- Shade the whole model, including the base with Nuln Oil.
- Paint the base rim with either Abaddon Black or Steel Legion
- (Optional) Carefully apply chapter and squad markings transfers to the shoulder pads
If your miniature has a plasma pistol, you could paint the magnetic coils with either Balthasar Gold, or Temple Guard Blue depending on whether you want the weapon to look fully charged or not. Balthasar Gold can be shaded with Agrax Earthshade while Temple Guard Blue can be shaded with Tyran Blue. Similarly, if you've chosen to equip your Sergeant with a hand flamer or Thunder Hammer, you could pick out the muzzle of the flamer and head of the hammer with Balthasar Gold and shade them with Agrax Earthshade.
This method could work well for batch painting so would be perfect if you wanted to get a a full squad painted up to a good basic standard quite quickly and of course you could always go back and add some highlights and extra details to the miniatures at a later date if you wanted to.
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